Jinan Hotels
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The capital of Shandong and a busy industrial city with three million inhabitants,
JI'NAN is the province's major transit point and communication centre, which anyone
travelling in the area is bound to visit at some point. It's possible to kill a day
here, but as the tourist sights are unspectacular and the hotel situation is poor, the
city is best thought of as a stop off on the way to or from Qufu and Tai'an, a few hours
south.
Though you'd never guess it, the city has an illustrious past. It stands on the site
of one of China's oldest settlements , and pottery unearthed nearby has been dated to
over four thousand years ago. The present town dates from the fourth century AD when
Ji'nan was a military outpost and trading centre. The town expanded during the Ming
dynasty, when the city walls were built - they're no longer standing but you can see
where they were on any map by the moats that once surrounded them. Present development
dates back to 1898, when the Germans obtained the right to build the Shandong rail
lines. Track was laid from Qingdao, another German concession town, and the line
completed in 1904. The city was opened up to foreign trade in 1906, and industrialized
rapidly under the Germans, English and Japanese.
Ji'nan is famous in China for its natural springs , which are actually rather dull.
Once impressive sights - the poet Li Fenggao wrote of the Qing city, "Waterlilies
on four sides, willows on three, half the city is a mountain, half is a lake" - and
earning the town a reputation for cleanliness and health, these days the springs
resemble little more than muddy pools. Some of the nineteenth-century German and
Japanese architecture remains, but Ji'nan's buildings aren't pretty. The fashion for
facing buildings with white bathroom-style tiling seems to have reached its zenith here,
and to Western eyes the city looks like an enormous complex of public conveniences. The
most interesting places are all outside the centre, and the most rewarding way to spend
any time in the city is to stroll through the parks with their attractive lakes, or slog
your way up Thousand Buddha Mountain in the south.
For cheap food, try the stalls around the train station. If you want to eat out in
style, the Ji'nan Roast Duck Restaurant, at 10 Wei Er Lu, is glitzy though not cheap at
¥100 per person, but the roast duck, cooked Beijing-style, is excellent. The Oriental
Gourmet Restaurant, at 188 Yingxiongshan Lu, is also pricey, serving Shandong
specialities, such as carp and scorpion. The same dishes are available at a lower price
at the Huiquan Restaurant, at 22 Baotuquan Lu. The Ji'nan People's Market (see
"Listings" below) is well stocked with flash restaurants and fast-food places.
If you're craving junk food, head for KFC on Quancheng Lu.