Macau Hotels
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Macau comprises three distinct parts: the peninsula , which is linked by bridge to
the island of Taipa , which is in turn linked by bridge to a second island, Coloane .
The peninsula of Macau, where the original old city was located and where most of the
historic sights still are (as well as the city amenities), is entirely developed right
up to the border with China in the north, though the islands, Coloane in particular,
contain some quiet rural patches.
The peninsula is not large and it's possible to get around much of it on foot, though
you'll need buses for the longer stretches. Macau's Jetfoil Terminal, for boats to and
from Hong Kong, is in the southeast of the peninsula. The most important road, Avenida
Almeida Ribeiro , cuts across from east to west, taking in the Hotel Lisboa, one of
Macau's most famous landmarks, and exits on its western end at the inner harbour, near
to the docking point for ferries from Guangzhou. The western part of Almeida Ribeiro is
also the budget hotel area.
Macau's two islands, Taipa and Coloane , are just dots of land which traditionally
supported a few small fishing villages, though now, with the opening of the new airport
on Taipa, a second bridge from the mainland and a large reclamation programme, that old
tranquillity is on the way out. Indeed, Taipa is fast acquiring the characteristics of a
city suburb. For the time being, life seems to remain relatively quiet, particularly on
Coloane, and the two islands are well worth a visit, either by bus or by rented bicycle.
The town of Macau was born down in the south of the peninsula, around the bay-front
road known as the Praia Grande , and grew out from there. Unfortunately, these days a
stroll on the seafront is not what it was, with the bay now being enclosed and
reclamation work underway. More rewarding is the main road that cuts the Praia from east
to west, called Avenida do Infante d'Henrique to the east and Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro
to the west. At the eastern end of the road rises the extraordinarily garish Lisboa
Hotel, though most of the interest lies in the section west of the Praia, particularly
in the beautiful Largo do Senado (Senate Square), which marks the downtown area and
bears the unmistakeable influence of southern Europe, not only in its architecture, but
also in its role as a place for people to stroll, sit and chat in the open air.
At the northern end of Largo do Senado, away from the main road, is the beautiful
seventeenth-century Baroque church, São Domingos , while to the south, facing the
square from across the main road, stands the Leal Senado (Mon-Sat 1-7pm; free),
generally considered the finest Portuguese building in the city. Step into the interior
courtyard here to see wonderful blue and white Portuguese tiles around the walls, while
up the staircase from the courtyard, you reach first a formal garden and then the richly
decorated senate chamber itself. In the late sixteenth century this hall used to be
packed out with the entire citizenry of the colony, who gathered to debate issues of
importance. The senate's title leal (loyal) was earned during the period when Spain
occupied the Portuguese throne and Macau became the final stronghold of loyalists to the
true king. Today the senate chamber is still used by the municipal government of Macau,
though it's hardly the democratic chamber of old. Adjacent to the chamber is the
wood-carved public library , whose collection includes a repository of many fifteenth-
and sixteenth-century books which you can still see on the shelves; you're free to go in
and browse.
A couple of hundred metres west from Largo do Senado, Almeida Ribeiro emerges onto
the so-called Inner Harbour , which overlooks, and is sheltered by, the mainland just
across the water. Ferries to Guangzhou still use this harbour, and it used also to be
the location of the Floating Casino , an ugly wooden contraption on the water teeming
with gamblers at all hours. (A few months before Macau's handover this was moved to a
site near the Jetfoil Terminal, for unspecified "security reasons".) Some of
the streets immediately inland from here, especially those just north of Almeida
Ribeiro, are worth poking around. Streets such as Rua Felicidade, parallel with Almeida
Ribeiro, have shaken off their former seediness and are now full of friendly restaurants
and small hotels. South from the Guangshou Ferry Pier the seafront road, Rua das
Lorchas, is lined by old arcades and characterful shops.