Ningbo Hotels
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Downtown Ningbo is divided in three by the confluence of its two rivers. Connecting
the western part of town, the area of the original walled city, with the northern part,
the former foreign concession, is the Xinjiang Bridge . The neighbourhoods flanking each
side of the bridge are the best places in town to soak up a bit of atmosphere; take bus
#1 from the train station. Just south of the bridge, on its west side, is an interesting
dried fish market, while on the northern bank, you'll find fishing boats, sailors and
all the trappings of a busy harbour. Also on this side, but east of the bridge, a few of
the elaborate porticos and verandahs of the old treaty port still survive, flanked by
impromptu waterside fish markets, while directly south of the ferry terminal stands a
seventeenth-century Portuguese church , built for proselytizing purposes but which today
serves the local Christian community. The inside is nothing special, with stained-glass
depictions of the Twelve Stations of the Cross, but one of the caretakers should be more
than willing to take you around on a short tour if you're interested (daily 6am-6.30pm;
free). Viewed from afar, the church steeple and the surrounding low-rise
Mediterranean-style houses would not look out of place in Southern Europe.
The modern town, similar in sights and scale to other Chinese cities, stretches out
south of the Xinjiang Bridge. Two blocks south of the bridge, the main commercial
street, Zhongshan Lu , cuts across the big Dongmen Kou junction from east to west. The
eastern section, across the Jiangsha Bridge , is an upmarket shopping area complete with
several American fast-food restaurants, but it's the western stretch that's the heart of
the modern city, a broad avenue lined with modern buildings housing Ningbo's big
department stores. About 1km west of Dongmen Kou, Zhenming Lu, a street full of
half-timbered houses and arched trees leads north past the Drum Tower to Zhongshan Park
, a small open space which teems with martial arts enthusiasts in the early mornings.
Half a kilometre west of Dongmen Kou, it's worth taking a walk down Kaiming Jie, which
runs south off Zhongshan Lu. This street is crowded with little shops and stalls, and
has some of the better places to eat local seafood. About 1km down here, near the
junction with Jiefang Lu, you'll find the fourteenth-century Tianfeng Pagoda , which you
can climb for views.
The oldest part of town is an area to the southwest around Yue Hu (Moon Lake); take
bus #20 from just south of the Xinjiang Bridge, or it's twenty minutes' walk north of
the train station. Little more than a large version of a village pond, the lake has an
enclosed area for swimming and the usual crowd of people doing their washing on the
stone steps. Much of the area's charm has recently been razed, with the construction of
a sprawling new park on the western shores, but Ningbo's best tourist attraction, the
Tianyige Library (daily 8am-4.30pm; ¥12), survives in the middle. Built in 1516 and
said to be the oldest surviving library building in China, it was founded by Ming
official Fan Qin, whose collection went back to the eleventh century and included
woodblock and handwritten copies of the Confucian classics, rare local histories and
lists of the candidates successful in imperial examinations. Nowadays you can visit the
library's garden and outhouses, some of which contain small displays of old books and
tablets. It's quite a charming place and the gold-plated, wood-panelled buildings, their
bamboo groves, pool and rockery still preserve an atmosphere of seclusion, contemplation
and study.