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The town of WUXI , the regional centre close by the northern shore of the lake, is
not particularly attractive, but it's the most convenient place to base yourself for a
visit to the main Tai Hu beauty spots. Wuxi was allegedly established more than 3500
years ago as the capital of the Wu Kingdom. It served as the Wu capital for over 600
years until the Han Dynasty, when the neighbouring tin mines were exhausted. At this
point, the Wu capital shifted further west to Wuhan (Wuxi means "Without
Tin"). It was the construction of the Grand Canal centuries later that brought
importance to local trade and industry, as it did for so many other canal towns. The
result here is something of a hotchpotch as far as tourists are concerned, with Wuxi
surpassed as a lakeside city by Hangzhou, and as a canal town with traditional gardens
by Suzhou. In an effort to siphon tourists away from its more famous neighbours, Wuxi
boosters have constructed many "instant tourism" sights in the past few years,
most notably a slew of theme parks and the tallest Buddha in the world , which smack of
revenue-minded artificiality. Local Chinese come here in droves to sample the lakeside
scenery and marvel at the statue, but foreign travellers will not miss too much if they
pass them by.
The old city of Wuxi is roughly oval-shaped, and surrounded by a ring of canals. The
main branch of the Grand Canal runs outside this ring (but well inside the modern city)
about 1km to the southwest. Inside the canal ring, the ring road, Jiefang Lu, is cut
from north to south by Zhongshan Lu, and from east to west by Renmin Lu. The junction of
Renmin Lu and Zhongshan Lu forms the approximate centre of downtown Wuxi, a busy,
throbbing area of shops and restaurants.
One place in town to pass a few hours amid trees and small paths is Xihui Park (daily
7am-7pm; ¥4; bus #2 through town from the train station), west of the centre, north of
Huihe Lu, and allegedly once visited by Emperor Qin Shi Huang. The path from the main
entrance on Huihe Lu leads directly up to the Dragon Light Pagoda on top of Xi Shan ;
more interesting, though, is the cable car (¥25) whose long, slow trajectory links with
another peak on neighbouring Hui Shan . The cable-car ride is definitely worth the
panoramic views over to Tai Hu on a clear day, though you'll need a good head for
heights. On the way, you'll pass over a small lake surrounded by a group of tiled
pavilions and paved stairways which look like the curving ribs of some mammoth skeleton.
Here are the remains of the 1500-year-old Huishan Si alongside the Jichang Yuan
(Carefree Garden). Hui Shan itself is the source of a special black clay used for the
ugly painted figurines sold all over Wuxi, and which have been made here since at least
the Ming dynasty.
Although the historic Grand Canal runs through Wuxi's western suburbs, there are no
places of interest along its banks. However, the area along the city's inner moat
provides one or two sights for those with time to spare. Just south of the southern tip
of the Jiefang Lu ring road, along Xiangyang Jie, is the tenth-century Miaoguang Pagoda
, of the Nanchang Buddhist Temple; it's worth climbing up for the views. About 1km south
of here, along Nanchang Lu, you'll come to Qingming Bridge , the best-preserved ancient
stone arch bridge in Wuxi.
A bit farther afield, on the Ma Shan peninsula 10km southwest of Wuxi by the shores
of Tai Hu, reposes the giddyingly tall Lingshan Fo (The Buddha at Ling Mountain). At 88
metres high, this bronze-plated standing giant is the tallest Buddha in the world,
outreaching the Dafo (Big Buddha) in Leshan, Sichuan Province (the previous tallest in
the world) by over seventeen metres. That said, it's hard to feel this Buddha was built
for any reason other than to be put in the record books and to extract yuan from
tourists, as the site lacks any significant religious or historical relevance. Lingshan
Fo is accessible