Bombay Hotels
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Between the airports to the north and the southern tip of Mumbai lies a
thirty-kilometre, seething mass of streets, suburbs and relentless traffic. Even during
the relatively cool winter months, exploring it can be hard work, requiring plenty of
pit stops at cold-drink stalls along the way. The best place to start is down at the far
south end of the peninsula in Colaba , home to most of the hotels, restaurants and
best-known sights, including the Gateway of India . Fifteen minutes' walk north takes
you past the Prince of Wales Museum to the Fort area, home of all the banks and big
stores, plus the cream of Mumbai's ostentatious Raj-era buildings. The extravagant
Victoria Terminus (Chatrapathi Shivaji Terminus) overlooks its northern limits, close to
the impressive onion dome of the GPO . The hub of the suburban train network, Churchgate
station , stands 4km west, across the big maidans that scythe through the centre of
town. Churchgate, and the tourist office , is a stone's throw from the sweeping curve of
Back Bay. With Nariman Point 's skyscrapers at one end, lively Chowpatty Beach and the
affluent apartment blocks of Malabar Hill at the other, the Bay is Mumbai at its
snazziest. But the area immediately north and east is ramshackle and densely populated.
The central bazaars extend from Crawford Market , beyond VT station, right up to J Boman
(JB) Behram Marg , opposite the other main-line railway station, Mumbai Central .
Mumbai never sleeps. No matter what time of night you venture out, there are bound to
be others going about some business or other. The city has always led the nightlife
scene in India and there are bars and clubs to suit every taste: jazz dens compete with
salsa, tabla-dance fusions and funk. Mumbai's alternative but decidedly yuppie crowd
meet at the Ghetto Bar before heading down to the gay, glitzy or groovy clubs around
Colaba and Juhu.
Of course, Mumbai is also a cultural centre, attracting the finest Indian classical
music and dance artists from all over the country. There are frequent concerts and
recitals at venues such as: Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan, KM Munshi Marg (tel 022/363-0224),
the headquarters of the international cultural (Hindu) organization; Cowasjee Jehangir
(CJ) Hall opposite the Prince of Wales Museum (tel 022/282-2457); Birla Matushri, 19
Marine Lines (tel 022/203-6707); Tejpal Auditorium, 7 AK Nayak Marg (tel 022/207-2061);
Shanmukhananda Hall, 6 J Yagnik Marg (tel 022/403-1357); and the National Centre for the
Performing Arts, Narimon Point (NCPA; tel 022/288-3838) auditorium. NCPA also offers
modern Gujarati, Hindi, Marathi and English-language plays as well as Western chamber
music , while a smattering of platinum-selling Western rock artists appear at Mumbai
stadium.