Atami Hotels
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Atami Korakuen Hotel
Situated on the Shinkansen line between Tokyo and Osaka, the hot-spring resort of
ATAMI serves as the eastern gateway to Izu. It's an expensive, sometimes garish, place
but is home to the outstanding MOA Museum of Art (daily except Thurs 9.30am-5pm;
¥1600), which is carved into a hillside above the town. Though the steep admission is
off-putting, the museum's remarkable architecture and collection of mostly ancient
oriental art justify a visit. Note that you can buy slightly reduced tickets (¥1400) at
the tourist information desk (Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm; tel 0557/81-6002)
inside Atami Station, before hopping on a bus from the station concourse up to the
museum (5min; ¥160). Buses drop you outside the museum's lower entrance, from where you
ride four escalators cut through the rock - taking in a laser show on the way - to the
main exhibition halls. Each room contains just a few pieces from this magnificent
private collection, of which the most famous is a dramatic folding screen entitled Red
and White Plum Blossoms by the innovative Ogata Korin (1658-1716). But the most
eye-catching exhibit is a full-size replica of a golden tearoom, lined with gold leaf
and equipped with utensils made of gold, built in 1586 for when the warlord Toyotomi
Hideyoshi invited Emperor Ogimachi for a cuppa. The museum's well-tended gardens contain
teahouses serving matcha and sweet cakes (¥630).