Matsuyama Hotels
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Ana Hotel Matsuyama
Chisan Hotel Matsuyama
The 132-metre-high Katsuyama dominates the centre of Matsuyama and on its summit
stands the city's prime attraction, the castle Matsuyama-jo (daily 9am-5pm; ¥350).
Warlord Kato Yoshiakira began building his multiple-wing fortress in 1602, but by the
time it was finished, 26 years later, he had moved to Aizu in Tohoku. Like many Japanese
castles hailed as "original", the Matsuyama-jo has gone through several
editions during its lifetime. The main five-storey donjon was destroyed by lightning on
New Year's Day in 1784, and rebuilt two storeys shorter in 1820 - the three lesser
donjons are all modern-day reconstructions. Despite this, the castle is one of the more
impressive fortresses in Japan, particularly since its location provides commanding
views of the city and Inland Sea.
You can get up to the castle by the cable car or chairlift on the eastern flank of
the hill; both cost ¥210 one way. For ¥750 you'll get a pink ticket for a return ride,
and a green ticket for entrance to the castle. It's also possible to walk up. There are
several steep routes - the main one starts just beside the cable car, at the steps up to
Shinonome-jinja , also on the castle hill's east side. This picturesque shrine is famous
for its Takigi festival, held every April, when No plays are performed by the light of
fire torches. Other routes run up the west side of the hill, and can be combined with a
visit to the Ninomaru Shiseki Teien .
Whichever route you take, you'll end up at the Tonashi-mon gateway to the castle, and
will emerge onto a long plateau surrounded by walls and turrets and planted with blossom
trees. Inside the main donjon, climb up to the top floor for the view and, on the way
down, pass through the museum with displays of calligraphy, old maps, samurai armour and
some gorgeously painted screens.
Heading down the western side of the hill leads to the tranquil gardens of the
Ninomaru Shiseki Teien (April-Aug Mon-Sat 9am-4.30pm, Sun 9am-7pm; Jan-March &
Sept-Dec daily 9am-4.30pm; ¥100) - the gardens can also be approached from the road
beside EPIC. Looking a bit like a giant geometry puzzle, the gardens are built on the
site of the Ninomaru, the outer citadel of the castle. The pools and pathways at the
front of the gardens represent the floor plan of the former structure, which succumbed
to fire in 1872. To the rear, as the grounds climb Katsuyama, the design becomes more
fluid, with rockeries, a waterfall and two tea-ceremony houses, one of which serves tea
and okashi (a sweet cake) for ¥300.
At the base of the south side of the hill is the striking French-style villa,
Bansui-so . Built in 1922 for Count Sadakoto Hisamatsu, the fifteenth lord of
Matsuyama-jo, the villa now houses the Annex of the Prefectural Art Museum (Tues-Sun
10am-6pm; ¥800). The twentieth-century Japanese art displayed inside is changed every
three months, but it is the exterior of this building which is most impressive,
particularly the juxtaposition of trees pruned like poodles and the wild palms on the
forecourt.
From the exit to Bansui-so you are well placed to start exploring the main shopping
arcade of Okaido, at the entrance of which is a branch of the upmarket Mitsukoshi
department store. At the end of the arcade, cross the main road and turn right into the
Gintengai arcade, which eventually leads to the Shi-eki Station and Sogo department
store. A couple of minutes' walk south of here, across the Iyo Tetsudo rail line, is the
Shiki-do (daily 9am-5pm; ¥50), an evocative recreation of the poet Masaoka Shiki's home
sandwiched between his family's local temple, Shoshu-ji, and the cemetery. Inside the
tiny one-storey house are some of the poet's personal effects, his writing desk and
examples of his calligraphy.