Sendai Hotels
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Holiday Inn Sendai from $97.63 USD • Hotel Jal City Sendai from $142.68 USD •
Chisan Hotel Sapporo Shinkan
The largest city in the Tohoku region, SENDAI is a sprawling but pleasant place, with
broad, tree-lined avenues and a lively downtown district. Though often just regarded as
a staging post on the way to Matsushima Bay , the city's castle ruins , with their local
history museum, and the ornate mausoleum of Sendai's revered founder, the daimyo Daté
Masamune , are worth a brief stop. During the Star Festival , the Tanabata Matsuri (Aug
6-8), the city centre is awash with thousands of bamboo poles festooned with colourful
paper tassels, poems and prayers, celebrating the only day in the year - weather
permitting - when the two astral lovers, Vega the weaver and Altair the cowherd, can
meet.
The natural place to start exploring is the wooded hilltop park, Aobayama-koen ,
which was once the site of the magnificent Sendai Castle, popularly known as Aoba-jo.
Only a few stretches of wall and a reconstructed gateway remain, but the site is
impeccable, protected by the river to the east and a deep ravine on its south side.
Buses run from Sendai Station (stand 9) to Aobajoshi-mae (20min), from where it's a
short walk to the statue of Masamune astride his horse, surveying the city below. A
fearsome warrior, Masamune was nicknamed the "One-Eyed Dragon" thanks to a
childhood attack of smallpox. He had been granted the fiefdom in return for helping
bring Tokugawa Ieyasu to power in 1603, and the Daté clan continued to rule Sendai for
the next 270 years. Their castle was constructed in highly ornate Momoyama style, with
painted ceilings and huge rooms divided by glorious screens, more like a luxurious
palace than a fortress. Though it's a bit gimmicky, you can get an idea of its former
glory in the small Aoba-jo Exhibition Hall (daily 9am-4.30pm; ¥700), located above the
park's souvenir shops, where a short, computer-generated film takes you
"inside" the castle; the red seats are equipped with foreign-language earphone
sets.
Ten minutes' walk down the north side of the hill brings you to the more interesting
Sendai City Museum (Tues-Sun 9am-4.45pm; ¥400, extra for special exhibitions). This
modern, well-laid-out installation traces the city's history from the early Stone Age to
the present day, though the main emphasis is on the glory days under Masamune and his
successors. On the second floor you'll find displays of his armour, with the distinctive
crescent moon on the helmet, his sword and various portraits - always with two eyes.
When Daté Masamune died in 1636, aged 70, he was buried in the Zuiho-den on a wooded
hillside just along the river from Aoba-jo. Eventually his two successors joined him,
and their three mausoleums (daily 9am-4/4.30pm; ¥550) now stand at the top of broad,
stone steps, all in the same opulent Momoyama style, their polychrome carvings
glittering against the plain dark wood and overhanging eaves. In fact, the mausoleums
are fairly recent reconstructions - during the five-year project the graves were opened
and you can see the treasures they unearthed, as well as a fascinating video of the
excavations, in a one-room museum beside the Zuiho-den. Though the mausoleums are only a
short distance from Aoba-jo as the crow flies, getting here is either a good
twenty-minute walk, or you have to take a bus back to Sendai Station and out again
(stand 11) to the Otamaya-bashi stop. If you're walking from the castle, cross the river
by the City Museum and take the first right, heading southeast to cross again at the
next bridge, then look out on the right for the main approach road.