Kota Kinabalu Hotels
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Berjaya Palace Hotel Kota Kinabalu from $38.45 USD • Shangri-la's Tanjung
Aru Resort
Since 1946, Sabah's seat of government has been based at KOTA KINABALU , or KK as
it's universally known. Although not pretty architecturally, it's got a unique buzz to
it and is the liveliest city in Malaysia after KL, with a plethora of markets, cafés
and bars. Most travellers grow fond of Kota Kinabalu, not least as its bright lights and
excellent eating are gratefully received after a spell roughing it on Mount Kinabalu or
at Uncle Tan's Jungle Sanctuary. Aside from the State Museum, Kota Kinabalu's major
highlight is offshore Tunku Abdul Rahman Park , whose five unspoilt islands are just ten
minutes by speedboat from the city centre.
Downtown Kota Kinabalu was almost obliterated by World War II bombs, and only in the
northeastern corner of the city centre - an area known as Kota Kinabalu Lama, or old Kota Kinabalu
- are there even the faintest remains of its colonial past. Jalan Gaya in particular is
an attractive street lined with colourful and popular Chinese kedai kopis.
The most diverting of the waterfront markets is the Filipino Market , opposite blocks
K and M of the Sinsuran Complex, which sells Sabahan ethnic wares as well as Filipino
baskets, shells and trinkets. Next door is the dark and labyrinthine general market and,
behind that, the manic waterfront fish market.
Kota Kinabalu's most rewarding cultural experience, though, is the Sabah State Museum
(Mon-Thurs 10am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-6pm; free), twenty minutes' walk west of the town
centre along Jalan Tunkul Abdul Rahman (or take a bus from opposite the GPO), and housed
in Murut- and Rungus-style longhouses. Its highlight is the ethnographic collection,
which includes human skulls from Sabah's headhunting days, and totems. Photographs trace
the development of Kota Kinabalu, and there's also a natural history section, an
archeology gallery and an Islamic Civilization Gallery. Fronting the museum is an
Ethnobotanic Garden (daily 6am-6pm), whose huge range of tropical plants is best
experienced on one of the free guided tours (9am & 2pm except Fri). Exquisitely
crafted, traditional houses representing all Sabah's major tribes border the garden, in
the Kampung Warisan.
You'll find good hawker stalls on the upper floor of the General Market, Jalan Tun
Fuad Stephens, and at the night market, behind the Filipino Market, Jalan Tun Fuad
Stephens. For nightime drinking , check out Crash, below New Sabah Inn, Jalan Pantai, a
lively enough place which has a midweek bikini parade, and Rocky Fun Pub & Café,
Lot 52, Jalan Gaya (until 2am), a good-time bar favoured by expats and Yaaha Cowboy
Lounge, Block C, Asia City Complex, which, despite the hick name, is a superb bar with a
food court alongside. Pick of the bunch, however, must be the no-frills Chinese and
Filipino drinking hole, Fun Sen, a few doors down from the Diamond Inn. Guinness Stout
is the staple here for a friendly, boozy, let-it-all-hang-out clientele.
Restoran Bilal , Block B, Segama Complex. A classic North Indian Muslim eating house,
with a buffet-style range of tasty and inexpensive curries. Daily 6am-9pm.
Restoran Haj Anuar , Block H, Sinsuran Complex. Cosy, open-fronted place with a Malay
menu including soto, nasi lemak and nasi campur. Daily 7am-7pm.
Jothy's Banana Leaf , 1/G9 Api Api Centre (tel 088/261595). Mountainous daun pisang
(banana leaf) meals, biriyanis and curries. Daily 10am-10pm.
New Fortune Eating House , Block 36, Jl Laiman Diki, Kampung Air. A busy place
housing several stalls, the best of which serves superb dim sum. 6am-7pm.
Rana Sahib's , Block G, Asia City Complex (tel 088/231354). Tasty North Indian food
experience marred by high prices and over-fussy owner. However, its sag gost and chicken
kashmir are wonderful. 11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm.
SEDCO Square , SEDCO complex. Restaurant-lined square, with outdoor tables; a fine
place for barbecued meat and fish.
Sri Melaka , 9 Jl Laiman Diki, Kampung Air. Exquisite Malay and Nonya food at one of
KK's best and most fashionable places; try the excellent assam fishhead (RM12 portion
feeds two). Open 11am-10.30pm.
Tain Ran Vegetarian Restaurant , Block A, Ruang Singgah Mata 1, Asia City Complex.